Fashion trends and pseudoscience go hand in hand. The topical antioxidant segment - named substances such as coenzyme Q, alpha-lipoic acid, resveratrol, green tea, soy steroids, superoxide dismutase, and pomegranate - is so popular that it seems like a new substance appears every month. However, the evidence for the effectiveness and duration of action of many of them, mainly those of plant origin, is weak. Usually, research that demonstrates the benefits of a substance is funded by cosmetic companies.
There is much more scientific evidence for the anti-aging effects of topical antioxidants such as vitamins C, E, B. Plus these substances are in a small molecular size, due to which they penetrate the skin. Some studies support the effectiveness of stable vitamin C in concentrations ranging from 5 to 15%. The result is improved by combining vitamins C and E. So, if you want to use antioxidants, we recommend a 5-15% vitamin C preparation, with the addition of vitamin E.
Last but not least, the effectiveness of these products decreases as they are stored. If the product contains vitamin C, this does not mean that it remains there after a few months. Therefore, try to find cosmetics that do not lose their characteristics over time.
Such compounds are a group of substances aimed at eliminating skin aging at the cellular level. There are many of them - some are more effective, others less. So, the most powerful, even from the point of view of science, is the synthetic version of vitamin A (it is dispensed with a prescription). However, less effective natural forms of vitamin A also help fight skin aging. At the same time, any of the versions of this substance can irritate the skin. If this is your case, I suggest using peptides and growth factors (we will discuss them a little later), even if their effectiveness against skin aging and has less scientific evidence.
How does vitamin A work? Its natural forms, retinol, and retinaldehyde are metabolized in the skin to retinoic acid, which then binds to the main receptors that trigger the collagen production and the renewal of the body lining. Albert Kligman and James Fulton, chemists at the University of Pennsylvania who discovered this effect, originally intended to use retinoic acid to treat acne, but noticed that the substance has a powerful ability to reduce wrinkles and stretch marks. Many companies that sell vitamin A products today, including Retin-A, are expanding their scope to repair damage caused by UVA radiation: age spots, wrinkles, reduced firmness, etc.
It is important to know that pregnant women should not use any form of Retina-A. There is a potential danger that tretinoin accumulating in the body can cause fetal damage.
This substance can also increase sensitivity to the sun, irritate reactive skin, and a burning sensation.
Retinol, the natural form of vitamin A, is less irritating. There are good drugstore brands including La Roche-Posay Redermic R and SkinCeuticals, but they contain other allergens and provocateurs in addition to the potentially irritating retinol. So be careful.
Other components that aid in the regulation of skin cells include growth factors and polypeptides. Among the former are epidermal (Epidermal Growth Factor, abbreviated EGF) and transforming (Transforming Growth Factor, abbreviated TGF) growth factors. Companies selling these products claim to trigger natural healing processes that address the effects of aging and UV damage. However, the stability of growth factors in the cream, their absorbency, and effectiveness are unknown.
Peptides are better understood. One of them (trade name Matrixyl) was created in a cosmetic laboratory to meet the market's need for anti-aging products. There are five peptides in the preparation, that is, it is a pentapeptide; it is the first modern protein designed to alter cellular functions. Since its inception in 2000, many other anti-aging agents have been developed. One interesting one is a Botox-like peptide called Argireline, or Snap-8. However, it has been little researched, and the available research was monitored and financed by the manufacturer.
This is another family of chemical exfoliants, a large group that can include compounds derived from various natural sources, such as citric (from oranges and lemons), glycolic (from sugar cane), lactic (from milk), and tartaric (from grapes) acids ... Regardless of the type, alpha hydroxy acids, being distributed throughout the skin and dissolving chemical bonds between cells, rid it of dead cells of the stratum corneum.
As a result of this chemical exfoliation, new cells appear on the surface. Alpha hydroxy acids are among the first anti-aging treatments. Their ability to slow down the aging process and improve the condition of sun-damaged skin by increasing collagen density has been confirmed by numerous studies. Alpha hydroxy acids are also beneficial for acne-prone skin. I prefer these tools:
In the morning, moisturizing cosmetics with an antioxidant: during the day, it will prevent the oxidation of the skin under the influence of ultraviolet radiation and polluted air. Light serums and gels work well under sunscreen, for example:
In the evening, after cleansing, apply a cell signaling agent: retinol, tretinoin, Matrixyl or other peptides, growth factors (especially if you are 30 years old or more). The choice of product depends on the degree of skin reactivity and the damage caused by UVA rays. You can also use prescription vitamin A options without irritation, as these are the best studied.
If you have reactive skin and vitamin A intolerance, try peptides. If there is a reaction to them, then test the growth factors. They are less effective, but still have anti-aging effects with minimal risk of irritation. Finally, add an alpha and beta hydroxy acid exfoliating moisturizer several times a week. It will help oily and acne-prone skin. Such products are more suitable for people from 20 to 30 years old. Pay attention to the following cosmetics:
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