Hair Care Beauty Myths: about silicones, sulfates, ammonia and henna

08.10.2021

Sulfates and silicones penetrate the body and cause negative consequences

Sulfates and silicones are chemical components that are widely used in the cosmetics industry, including the production of hair care products. There is an opinion that these substances are able to penetrate into the body from cosmetics containing them. This is not entirely true.

Let's consider each component separately.

Sulfates (SLS - Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) are cleaning components that remove dirt from various surfaces, for which they got their name - surfactants. They are added to both cosmetics and household detergents. Surfactant molecules are very large, because of their size, they are not able to penetrate the skin cells, remaining on the surface, and are easily washed off with water. Their action is based on reducing surface friction, as a result of which the fat molecules simply roll off and are washed off. True, due to their active nature, together with the pollution, surfactants take along with them the natural sebaceous secretions of the skin - its protective barrier. This sometimes causes dryness and flaking. When using cosmetics with surfactants, such as shampoos, the maximum contact time with the scalp should not exceed two minutes, after which the hair should be thoroughly rinsed with water. Today, responsible manufacturers of hair care products are developing shampoos in such a way that possible side effects of surfactants are leveled by moisturizing and nourishing ingredients such as panthenol.

sulphate shampoo

Silicones are also unable to penetrate skin cells due to the large size of their molecules. In the past, silicones were not so perfect and often made the hair heavier, not allowing it to accelerate hair growth, today the chemical industry uses a new generation of silicones - light, safe, and with excellent cosmetic effect. Only silicones are capable of smoothing hair to shine, giving it a silky and healthy appearance.

The negative side of silicones is their inability to decompose in nature, therefore, to be honest, it is worth admitting that silicones accumulate in the environment, but their amount is so minimal that it does not pose a serious threat today.

Henna dyeing does not damage hair

Do you want to change your hair color? After henna, you can only cut them off.

Since ancient times, henna has cemented the fame of an effective, natural, safe hair dyeing product. Henna is of plant origin and is really capable of giving hair a beautiful, long-lasting, coppery tint. But is it really so harmless? In fact, henna has tanning properties, which, by the way, provide shine. This dye shows its negative side with its frequent use. Henna strongly compresses the hair, which leads to an increase in its density, while the hair becomes stiffer, less elastic.

The fibers that make up the hair begin to adhere so tightly to each other that they lose their plasticity, and the hair becomes brittle and dry. Therefore, you should not be surprised if, after several times of successful dyeing with henna, the hair suddenly began to actively break down and lost its former lightness, shine, and attractiveness.

henna dye

Another negative side of henna staining is its durability. It would seem that this quality should be written down as an advantage. But the enveloping properties of henna are so strong that no other dyes can overcome them, which means that it will not be possible to change the color after dyeing with henna. The only way is to grow it.

Ammonia is harmful

Ammonia is a gas that allows you to effectively dye your hair. It helps open the cuticle so that pigments can penetrate the hair structure. With the participation of ammonia, the reaction is quick and efficient.

Ammonia does not cause a seriously harmful effect on the hair. But it is no secret that ammonia is a volatile gas, and its vapors, when evaporated, have a pungent odor, which, when stained, causes discomfort to many, and for some it even causes allergies.

The elimination of ammonia from dyes makes it possible to increase comfort, but the point is that ammonia substitutes with the same properties, but without a pungent odor, are simply used for the dyeing process. It should be noted that ammonia substitutes are not able to bring the chemical reaction of coloring to the same high degree of efficiency as ammonia. Hence, a more modest palette of shades for ammonia-free dyes and much fewer options.

But how the hair feels after dyeing does not depend on the presence of ammonia in the dye, but on the balance of the components of the dye and procedures for hair and hair care, carried out in the first five minutes after the dye is washed off the hair and scalp. Do you want a bright color? It won't work without ammonia.

Heat protection products protect hair from overheating during styling

In fact, heat protection does not protect the hair from overheating. It protects all those care products that you have introduced into your hair during and after washing (from destruction by hot exposure) and also saturates the hair with moisturizing ingredients that prevent moisture loss when using thermal tools.

hair heat protection

The hair itself is somehow exposed to high temperatures since this is the purpose of using thermal tools. To give the hair an unusual shape (to straighten or vice versa to make curls), you need either water or high temperature. When wet, the hair loses its natural shape, but when it dries out, all the hydrogen bonds in it are restored and everything falls into place. Therefore, we use thermal tools - they break hydrogen bonds, and the hair is given the shape that is necessary.

Do not think that by applying heat protection products, we protect the hair from the effects of temperatures: in fact, we only slightly reduce the degree of the negative effect.

Hair products need to be changed periodically, as the hair gets used to them and this eventually affects their condition

Hair is a dead structure that cannot get used to caring products, it does not have the property of getting used to anything. Just after long-term use of the same product, the hair is saturated with its components and you no longer feel any improvement. For example, you have used a moisturizing mask for a long time: after two or three months your hair has already become saturated with moisture, and, perhaps, now your hair lacks restoration, which means it's time to introduce a regenerating mask into the basic care.

hair care products

If you are satisfied with your care products, then you should not specifically change them. But you always want something new, and the technologies are improving every time, so you can change or add new care products. Or you can just use care products from different lines at the same time.

Have you discovered something new for yourself? We are waiting for your feedback in the comments!